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[WIP] The HushPuppy - Full Auto Bullpup Demolisher
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[WIP] The HushPuppy - Full Auto Bullpup Demolisher
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The Dark Kitten
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Good God that thing looks nice
I must say also the bits and bobs you've out onto it are very innovative such as the NF motor cover.
It is very good to see people not relying on 3d printers and going back to basics!

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Minky
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Post Reply with quote
It's been great watching this form and it's looking great!

When you're considering those angles what are you looking to do? (Please bear in mind I have no training in design or art so I just see things as,  'I like that' or 'that's a mess' without being able to say why.)

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NscrupulousModefiler
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Justajolt wrote:
Great take on the Rayven thing!

Cheers matey! She's a stout wee lass compared to a Rayven, but feels great nestled into your shoulder.
áI do like 'em solid... áVery Happy


The Dark Kitten wrote:
... going back to basics!

Ah, the old ways, the true ways!




Minky wrote:
When you're considering those angles what are you looking to do?

Here it was mostly about looking to continue the existing lines. With the one on the shell heading to the hand-grip base, "almost right" was so obviously "wrong" I went back and tweaked the Stampede thumbhole til they lined up; this last one kinda joins three short angled lines from the front of the jam-door over the shell and down the stock support-arm... ish...


Subtle to the point of anal maybe, but it all adds up in the end áCool


26/01/17 Update: Internal Laser-sight Fitted

Got over-excited and pushed ahead with some of the internal tactical-gear installation:

LLLLLLLLLLLASERRRRRRRRRS! PEW-PEW!!

Just putting some quick pix up for the mo... full detail and more pix later. More sensible Tac-light going in on the other side...





Chiselling out seat for the holder. This is clamped in place by the three surrounding screws passing through the internal shell of the Demo (so it's solid...). The grub-screw to lock the sight in place in the holder is accessed through a new hole in the top tac-rail.




Opening up the shell to fit the body of the sight.


(Having tried this orientation, I'll be moving the switch back to the LHS of the shell so all the wiring is on the same side.)


Mounted far enough out so you can still access the elevation/windage adjustment screws.




Also... somewhere along the way with tweaking the pusher-box alignment, the Artifact cage managed to sort it's own L/R alignment issues. I don't have to shim that at all now - it just plonks onto the pegs. Win!
WRONG! Found I DID need to shim out by 1.0mm. See later post on the next page...




04/02/17 Update: Internal Tac-Light Fitted(ish...)

Finally back at the bench today for a bit... moving along and getting that torch installed:



Clockwise from left: Torch head with lens, LED, electronics and +ve/-ve terminals / body of torch / end cap with switch (too big to use this time...) / dowel for custom terminal adaptor / AA battery (we'll run 2 of these...)


Cutting it down to length. Baby lathe and even babier parting tool. Awwwww... so cute!


Cleaning up inside edge of cut with scraper.



Seat cut into shell for torch head.



Chiselling out channel to seat body of torch.
á


Initial fitting complete:
á á

Power: 2 x AA's housed in the original battery tray for the targeting laser, red-dot reflex sight and tac-light. It'll be easy enough to make up a spacer and use a single 14500 if I ever get one.


Switches: there'll be a few scattered about of various types and capacities: 1 to toggle between the laser and the red-dot sight, a momentary thumb switch for this, one for the tac-light, one for the volt-meter and a single master-switch controlling both the 7.4V and 3.0V circuits. The black rocker-switches are over-kill, but I prefer their action over boxy little slide-switches. May yet pop a fuse in there too.



Sling Point Attachment:

Brief pause before the big push to fire this puppy up, and thinking ahead to actual use...

An over-the-shoulder cross-sling seems more versatile to me than a single-point harness as you can throw the blaster right around to the back and out of the way when necessary. I always liked the way the Rayven's sling-points were sited for this. So far though The Hushpuppy had none, so something had to be done:

Starting with a Rapidstike's under-grip sling-point:


Chiselling out the webs and shaping the screw-point to seat the bar.
á á

Not enough room to get a sling clip through there though, so needed to cut further into shell:


Neat. Will have to cover that hole later...


Going for a velcro band to attach lower sling-point. Balance is good and all seems to work well so far.


Next up: 3.0 volt accessory-circuit wiring.

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Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.

Last edited by NscrupulousModefiler on Sat Apr 01, 2017 6:05 am; edited 4 times in total
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Minky
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Post Reply with quote
Nice work as always matey. I've just given a friend a Demo as a present so I'm gonna pass on the way you've sighted the 3v stuff internally. I've also been able to do some work on Project Ambition and also need sling mounts,  I've got my own idea how to make one but if that fails don't be surprised if you see a version of yours popping up on that thread Smile

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NscrupulousModefiler
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Minky wrote:
Nice work as always matey


Hey, cheers man áVery Happy

Those tac-lights are both standard-issue AliExpress items... your mate can probably get the set delivered to his door for under NZ$10. I'm still tossing up whether it's worth getting a proper reflex sight through there too instead of the Nerf-tastic plastic. So far though the build has been more about exploring what could be done with the platform while still keeping it practical... it's unlikely to ever see any "real" action. At least by NIC standards anyway ;0)

I'll post more detail on how all the parts need to be trimmed to fit once I get to the actual wiring. Looking forward to seeing movement on Project Ambition... you've been distracted by a couple of other projects!



**Update** 15/02/17: Laser/Reflex-Sight Switch Install

You can see in the pic here I've re-positioned the contacts in the battery tray for 2 x AA's. There's room here now if I wanted to put in a switch to swap to 2x14500's in parallel. The three-position switch shown will toggle between the Laser Sight (via an additional momentary switch), Off and the Reflex Sight. Tac-torch and voltmeter will be on separate switches behind the tac-lights themselves.







Voltmeter Install

Trying to keep all the motor wiring on the RHS shell-half, so have opted to put the voltmeter up top. Once again, making use of the perennial combo: A Nightfinder butt-cap and some Builder's Bog...










Prior damage / Chainsaw file / Problem sorted!


Looking at it now from a design point-of-view, it's a shame I had to use the same element (Nightfinder battery-cover) for this AND the pusher-motor cover... seems a bit wrong. The volt-meter housing is a much better use of the shape though, so I might just have to find another Firestrike so all the motors are covered by those :0( Still have to find something to cover the mess made by the pusher box on the LHS shell-half too...

Next up: Working on a new vid showing a tear-down of the build-to-date... stay tooned!


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Greetings, Nerflings - we come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!

Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.

Last edited by NscrupulousModefiler on Thu Apr 13, 2017 6:49 pm; edited 3 times in total
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jja
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Post Reply with quote
I have been following this build for a while, fond of bull-pup configurations. The way you have melded all these random parts together so cleanly is incredibly impressive, it looks like it was molded in one piece!
Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:08 am View user's profile Send private message
Minky
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Post Reply with quote
Tres cool.

How are you going to bridge the shells with your 3v circuit,  JST behind the tac light and laser?

Did you use a bit of off cut for the orange 'ramp' on the Voltmeter holder?  (and did you place this into the putty in the same way as the Voltmeter?)

Are you still going to have a killswitch on the 2s circuit/side as well?

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NscrupulousModefiler
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jja wrote:
... The way you have melded all these random parts together so cleanly is incredibly impressive, it looks like it was molded in one piece!


Hey, thanks :0) Many Bothans died to bring us this... I think we're up to 11 blasters now - and still counting.


Minky wrote:
How are you going to bridge the shells with your 3v circuit...?

Did you use a bit of off cut for the orange 'ramp' on the Voltmeter holder? á(and did you place this into the putty in the same way as the Voltmeter?)

Are you still going to have a killswitch on the 2s circuit/side as well?



1. Yes, bridging for 3v via JST - just for the torch on the RHS.

I'll have to pop something similar on the volt meter too as I want the on/off switch for it on the LHS next to the torch's switch. Left myself bugger-all wriggle-room for this - ended up needing to shave some of the Artifact cage to clear the screws holding the display in place - but at least it doesn't need to be 16AWG and the crossings will all be in the same spot just f'wd of the cage.

2. The "ramp" is made from a off-cut from the Praxis barrel (now battery tray). Initally I thought I'd just use bog but the front of the ramp where it met the display was going to be too fragile so looked in parts bin. Blow me down if the Praxis' angle wasn't perfect to use and have a flat section flush with the underside of the Nightfinder piece. Had to hand-chisel the bog to fit, and it'll get further trimmed then epoxied in place later. The screws will hold the display all by themselves.

3. A lot of thought going into the kill-switch idea at the mo... Initially I was planning a DPDT in the same spot on the other half of the shell to do duty for both 2S and 3v, but now the three-position 3v switch has sorted that side of things and thinking I might try a 2S kill-switch on the front of the (removeable) battery box itself where it's easily accessible by your off-hand but still protected by the fore-grip. Having it here would also mean your could de-activate the entire battery when it was removed. Possibly use a FET in there to enable a smaller (or cooler... like with lights...) push-button switch. All that would mean expanding the battery box though so might just have to happen later. Keen just to get this thing firing!

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Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.
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Minky
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Hahaha you had me at lights.

I know what you mean about getting so far through and getting that 'itch'  to just see it flinging some foam.  I managed to fire off the Typhon the other day with a LiPo at storage charge installed and although I'd tested it all and knew it was all working on the bench it was still great to feel it as one working piece in my hands (well one half I guess, still have to do the RC integration).

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NscrupulousModefiler
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Minky wrote:
Hahaha you had me at lights.


Idea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áIdea áVery Happy

Dammit, the thing just continues to refuse to fire without batteries... so had to put off everything else I'd promised (sorry... no vid yet...) and do something about that pronto:


03/03/17 Update: Battery Tray and Battery Box Fettling

This was always going to be a defining part of this build, so I wanted to get it right.

Motors are FK180-3539's recovered out of deceased RC helicopters. These came with their own 2S battery packs, but needing something here with a bit more ooomph. Settled on Samsung INR18650-25R's a while ago because
i) they're physically tougher than Lipo's (I like their power-tool lineage...)
ii) I had a Nitecore i4 charger that could manage them
iii) I could get them here cheaper than an equivalent Lipo and
iv) they fit the space (I was looking at a few other positions before I even thought about using the above-grip tray).

YES... there are infinitely better 18650's and vastly superior Lipos that will fit too, but could we just get past that please Rolling Eyes

There will be two (2) XT-60 male connectors hard-mounted inside the Praxis-barrel battery tray. One will be wired to connect to the female XT-60 connector on the battery box when it's inserted "upright" to provide power to the motors. The other will be hard-mounted directly above it but upside down and not wired in at all. The idea is that this would kill a few birds with one stone: the battery is placed low and forward for balance, is removable in much the same way as a power-tool battery (easy access for fast changing, solid lock-in-place, "satisfying" action...) but also stowable in the blaster body in "safe" mode when inserted "upside-down", sidestepping both the need for a kill-switch and separate battery storage during transportation. á


So... the build. First off, I had to finish that part of the shell. You can't really see it here, but I've split the front part of the Praxis barrel so the two halves of the battery tray could be separated out onto their respective shell halves (easier for wiring and assembly later...). This meant there needed to be something more solid clamping the front end of the Praxis barrel battery-tray to the barrel-shroud. Enter the Praxis stock's reinforcing-bar cover:



While I was at it, I minimised the side tac-rail to use as a cover for the shitty saw-job I did there before. Shortened the posts so the rail still registers accurately to the shell.


Right-o, on to the battery. Standard issue battery holder with 2x18650's in series for 2S (this will have seriously beefed up gold-plated silver contacts and appropriate wiring added). Sanding tray to fit snugly in box:


Remote control sized project box for battery enclosure. Removing/minimising internal bosses and webs so battery tray drops in. Leaving 2x bosses to take screws for lid. Will cut ventilation/cooling slots later.


Carving seat for XT-60 connector / 2x 3.2mm holes in tray for solder-lugs / groove in XT-60 to lock to end-wall:


Carving a matching rebate in end-wall to lock XT-60 in postion. Look Ma, no glue!


Recon mag-release buttons for the battery box grip-flanges:


Using cyanoacrylate (Superglue) with a primer to bond the grips. Could have squeezed in a kill-switch on the front of the box like I'd planned, but that would have meant splitting the battery tray and a LOT more faffing. As it was, everything just seemed to fit right doing it like this... sometimes, the path of least resistance IS the right way Wink


It's all pretty tight, but there should still be enough room to fit one of these 44x9x3mm 4-LED voltage indicators in there - hopefully along the side where it'll be accessible/viewable through the side of the Praxis barrel:


Carving Praxis barrel to fit battery box grip-flanges. These are on the exact mid-line of box, so will fit into the cut-outs either right-side-up (battery live) or upside down (battery safe):



HushPuppy WIP - State of Build as of 03/03/17:


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Greetings, Nerflings - we come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!

Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.

Last edited by NscrupulousModefiler on Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:02 am; edited 3 times in total
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Minky
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So just reading the specs on those batteries each cell gives 3.7v so in series they give 2500mAh at 7.4v with a 25A (10c at 2.5Ah) does that sound right? ..and if so what motors are you using again?  Don't want to be a battery fascist (and in honesty despite the great info on here I don't know enough about batteries and their chemistries to get all 'judgey' about it) but they sound underspecced for a 180's @ 7.4v build.

Sorry, I know you weren't inviting comment on battery choice but I was curious about those batteries as I've seen others use similar.
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NscrupulousModefiler
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Minky wrote:
...what motors are you using again? ... I was curious about those batteries as I've seen others use similar.


Sorry, that was probably a bit mean to try to avoid discussion on the battery choice Wink

The closest to a spec sheet I can dig up on the motors is this on Alibaba.

FK180-3539 Carbon brushed
Rating: 7.2v
Speed: 29,500rpm
Torque: 31.4Nm
Stall current: 15.5A

In practice, they seem to run ever so slightly slower and rougher than the single genuine Mabuchi FK180-3240 ("Blade 180") that I've got. Without 2 of these to put in a build I can't run an actual comparison, but the 3539's did a fine job in the Rapnadomolisher getting close to 9 or 10 8 or 9 DPS.

The Samsung INR18650-25R choice came about from following Toruk's Dart Zone posts on the subject - so more from experienced advice rather than spec sheet numbers. Latest post on the subject I think is here.. His Blade 180-equipped Tacmod builds still use the 20R version which is supposed to be slightly more responsive than the 25R (slightly lower IR), and he expands on this choice in this /r/Nerf post. u/ORlarpandnerf who he was replying to there is a big proponent of drop-in 18650's - I think his preferred ones are Sony VTC5's, but will use the Samsungs 25R's for less crucial builds.

We're limited in what batteries we can get down here in Godzone country and the 25R's were (at the time...) the best option for NZ$10 each. Blade 180's are rated at 22A stall current so even if the 3539's spec sheet is slightly off and they're equivalent to these, the 25R's should still do the job ok. If I was to get more it'd probably be Sanyo/Panasonic SAX's. I'd rather be running them as a properly welded 2S pack but haven't found anyone willing to do that here so making do by trying to build the lowest-resistance battery tray I can think up... stay tooned for the wire-up áSmile

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Greetings, Nerflings - we come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!

Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.

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Minky
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Ha! The only other place I'd seen them used was Toruk's builds, but then again as far as the 'NIC' goes I don't get out much. /r/Nerf is too 'noisy' for me.. I spent one night on there got no sleep and learnt very little. I'm happy swimming in the comparatively smaller pond of BritNerf because I think there's guys here who can give me the answers without the chatter of people that probably don't know what they are talking about though once I've got some builds under my belt and concreted my knowledge somewhat I might start showing my stuff off to a wider audience but without a completed 'project' and my questions still amounting to a healthy proportion of the Q&A here I'm not there yet!

I get why you'd take a little bit a defensive stance on battery choice. I wasn't around for the 'Battery Wars' (tm) but there's a lot of very strong opinions about and still idiots using trustfires and such. Breeds Internet rage. From what Toruk was saying they have a 1 second 100A burst rating. I don't know what chemistry they are (and even if I did I wouldn't be sure what that means) but it sounds as if they'd be underspecced for a LiPo (at 25A continuous vs. 31A combined stall the start up of the motors will pull above continuous each time they're started) but I get the impression they're made for industrial rather than leisure use and hardier as a result.

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NscrupulousModefiler
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Minky wrote:
I don't get out much.


Haha! I know the feeling áWink

Not a million% clued up on INR vs IMR vs Lipo chemistry either... but short story is that compared to Lipo 18650's are physically tougher, and INR chemistry is somewhat more stable than IMR. Admittedly I'm using them without any of the usual protective circuitry you'd find in a power-tool battery, but I'd still trust them more than a Lipo in an industrial setting. I'm pretty brutal on my tools - and even a foam war can get rough. The figures are all over the place for burst Amp-rating for 18650's depending on who you talk to and the application they're experienced using them in. Essentially I'm cutting through all the conflicting figures and going with a recommendation from a trusted Nerf-specific source that has reliably and consistently shot hard n' snappy over a long testing period using higher stall-rated motors (3 x Blades = 66+ Amps). Not top-of-the-line spec, but decent enough for the objectives of this build and gives me a base-line to test from.

For anyone who's interested though, this 76x35x16mm 2S 65C Graphene Lipo or this 71x19x35mm 3S 45C Lipo should fit nicely into the same project box. You'd need to clear out the interior entirely leaving two diagonally-opposite screw-bosses rather than the two on the end and find an alternative way to screw the lid down, open up some ventilation ports and temporarily remove the XT60 connector before carving the locking-groove in it to make sure you don't accidentally short the wires, but essentially you'd be making a handy-sized fully rebuildable hard-case Lipo. I'm very likely to do this myself at some point in a future higher-spec'd build once I get a balance charger.

I've edited the 1st post in this thread to show a bit of the power-tool ancestry of the HushPuppy... basically an old Makita 9.6v NiCad battery and housing monstered onto a Rayven. Apart from the overall improvement in balance, the thing I love most about the "Nerkita" is just how goddamn good it feels slapping a battery in there then pew-pewing!Very Happy





**Update** 1st April 2017: Battery-tray locking mech, mag-release lever, pusher-box side-covers, YET MORE switches and a couple of lousy videos...

April Fool's Day... seems appropriate ;0)


Right-o. Not a lot of progress on the getting-the-damn-thing-to-shoot front, but a heap of fiddly detail work going on...

Motor covers: making use of the venerable N-Strike 6-mag to cover the exposed parts of the RS pusher-box.
More orange - Yay!


Got the end of the stock attachment point sawn down and glued to the rear to seal that area off too. Not sure if I've jumped the gun here, as it's been handy having that open to check the dart-train alignment. Time will tell...



Speaking of dart-train alignment... it turns out I DID need to shim the Artifact Red Cage out off the bosses it rests on. 3x 1.0mm-thick washers hand-crafted from the finest 3.2mm tobin bronze welding rod. I love that stuff - so many uses around the home! This is good, as it gives the 180 motor terminals an additional 1.0mm clearance under the Firestrike covers I made - handy when wiring-time comes round. I'll build up under the 4th screw-down point on the cage with builder's bog once I get this firing and really see how the alignment's working.



Extended the mag-release lever using a re-purposed Rapidstrike stock-extension lock:



While I was at it, I stretched open the end of the spring so it damn well stays in there... sick of the little bugger sproinging off into the void all the time!


Added a little hold-down cover here (under the pencil), but didn't get a shot of it. This stops the sliding part of the mag-lock from twisting as the lever engages it, making the movement a bit more consistent. The lever itself is trimmed a bit and snugged up inside the RS extendo-arm.


!Links! to 'Tater-Cam« vids of the mechanism here, and the mag-release in action here.



FINALLY got round to doing something about the battery-box locking mech:


Four tiny screws to tack the parts in place before the big glue-up. Handily, the bolt running through as a hinge adds an extra shell-connection point in just the right place.


Massaging the arm into shape to get just the right "feel" as it clips over the foregrip...


!Link! to 'Tater-Cam« vid of battery-box tear-down and battery-tray locking-mech in action here.

Gotta say... the "Snick-Snap-Slap!" lock n' load action absolutely makes this mod for me. I live for that shitáVery Happy


And check this out: superfreakyweirdnwoobly serendipitous Hasbro design feature:

See where I have a bolt going through the fore-grip and into the barrel shroud to act as a hinge to get it out of the way of the battery-tray? I just put the drill through going "ummm... I think it needs to go about here..."



Turns out there's a boss in like exactly the right spot on the other side... SHAPED TO TAKE A NUT FOR A FREAKIN' 3.0mm BOLT! Cue spooky X-Files music!




Oh, yeah... and MORE switches for the 3v Tac-gear:
Momentary thumb-switch for the laser-sight (Pew-Peww!), rocker-switch for the Tac-torch and another for the voltmeter (???... might decide later which function this'll get assigned...)


And a connection to the 3v circuit for the red-dot sight. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but I'll probably lose this in the long-run as the sight itself is getting a make-over too.


_________________
Greetings, Nerflings - we come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!

Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.
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Minky
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I know it's daft but I totally get you when you talk about the tactile feel of slapping in a new drill battery, and let's face it, none of us got into Nerf for seriousness Smile

I may put in a little hold down cover over the mag lock catch on the Typhon as I've noticed it twisting in the same way with a DRS mag release extension. I figured there must be something on the opposing shell holding it true but even if that's the case it's useful to stop it turning out when you're testing on the work bench.

You're obviously a Boss diviner! Nice work!

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NscrupulousModefiler
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Minky wrote:
the tactile feel of slapping in a new drill battery...


I mean, who hasn't rocked up to the job-site, strapped on their tool belt then run down the hallway dual-wielding their cordless drill and driver set shouting "PEW-PEW!!"? áI know I have...

Minky wrote:
I may put in a little hold down cover over the mag lock catch on the Typhon


Yeah, found it's good to be able to tune the fit and movement of the action with everything just in the one shell-half - that way nothing changes when you tighten the shell-screws down.


**Update** 08/04/17: Red Dot Sight

So, with everything else getting all this practi-cool loving, the Modulus red-dot sight was starting to look hopelessly outclassed.

It had to GO.



...Or did it?? Hmmmm...






Stripped out the internals on the Modulus shell, drilled out the front holes in the picatinny-clamp on the sight to take the lower-front screw-bosses (first °5.5mm on RHS, then °7.5mm on LHS), nibbled away at stuff till it fitted and voila!



This is the scope I got - ≈NZ$20 shipped from AliExpress. Still using the original Nerf rail adaptor but the whole sheebang sits a bit low on the Demo's tac-rail (which is why the rear end of the new sight is sitting so high in the shell at the mo...) so I've got a proper quick-release riser in the post which I'll adapt to Nerf-rails (no sense having to put picatinny on everything other blaster I own...). 60mm is the ideal length to poke through the hole in the shell-base. Yet to sort something for better access to the power-switch and the L/R windage adjustment on the LHS, also the two lower screw-bosses are still used to clamp the shell halves but work needs to be done to secure things at the top as we lost the other two. Will update with more detail and a vid when finished - possibly as a whole 'nother thread.

Dammit though... it fits. Very Happy




**Update** 14/04/17: Fire-Control Triggers and Switches

Productive week this week. Here's the existing Strongarm grip and trigger. The SA has quite a long trigger-pull so thought briefly about double-action on the one trigger, but opted for more traditional dual-trigger solution.


Initial layout thoughts / trimming and shaving shell to seat switch / trigger trimmed and fitted.



Hmmm... a pivoting Firestrike rev-trigger? / Cutting boss down / °4.5mm screw self-taps into boss (3/16" would work too). Trigger-hole bored out to °5.0mm.



FS trigger's integrated spring-arm fitted perfectly in SA's shell with only the tiniest shave. The "pull" ended up feeling too strong though so removed the arm; trigger now activates switch directly.


2 x 16Amp microswitches held down with screws to existing bosses. Surprisingly, this was MUCH easier than I anticipated: no gluing, bogging or guide-fabrication needed - just shell trimming. Will add bog underneath later though for everything to seat on and to take 2nd hold-down screw for each switch. Rev-switch is seated deeper in shell so it can be held by the pivot-bolt's washer and so the wiring from the pusher-switch can pass over it. Nice direct action on the switches by the triggers, good feedback with positive "click" once engaged. Spring on firing-trigger adds the slightest bit of uptake gap before engaging (just my personal preference). Pivoting rather than sliding rev-trigger might take a bit of getting used to but was way too neat a solution to pass up. Pretty happy all round. Tear-down vid soon.


_________________
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Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.
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Minky
Senior Member


Joined: 16 Oct 2016
Posts: 417
Fav. Blaster: Rampage
Location: Derby



Post Reply with quote
I like the idea of upgrading the Nerf scopes to functional. #SleeperScope Their aesthetics blend a lot better with the blaster's, without painting the blaster milsim-ish IMO. May have to steal your pivoting rev trigger in springer pistol grip idea for an ongoing project so... Thanks! Smile

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If there was any other way of doing this without being the biggest damn hero you have ever met..  I'd still do this.
Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:45 pm View user's profile Send private message
NscrupulousModefiler
Junior Member


Joined: 18 Jul 2016
Posts: 45
Fav. Blaster: Rapnadomolisher
Location: New Zealand



Post Reply with quote
Minky wrote:
May have to steal your pivoting rev trigger in springer pistol grip idea...


Glad to be of service!

Minky wrote:
#SleeperScope


Haha! May have to use that one myself Wink


**2S Wiring Loom v1.0**

Quick sketch of initial thoughts without really checking whether all that 16AWG will actually fit yet... not sure whether or not this circuit will melt my chocolate-box either. Using Toruk's schematic for old-school UK live-centre and a 10A fuse on the pusher +ve feed. Adding dead-centre toggling too in case my live-centre set-up doesn't work so well (this is my first 3-switch wire-up...)

Away for the weekend now so will re-visit next week with a clearer head. Cheers!






_________________
Greetings, Nerflings - we come in peace. Shoot to Thrill!

Meishel wrote: Because "spin = cock". Some people love cock, don't judge.
Fri Apr 21, 2017 1:00 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
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