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Rainbow Pistol – BlazZe’s Method

 
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Rainbow Pistol – BlazZe’s Method
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BlazZe
New Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2013
Posts: 16
Fav. Blaster: Rainbow Pistol...
Location: England



Post Rainbow Pistol – BlazZe’s Method  Reply with quote
Here are the instructions for the rainbow pistol, may I add that I have not seen any methods on doing this I have basically just taken the catch idea and made it yes I know Nom created this but this Is my version.



This is before sanding and painting i will post pictures once 100% done and painted.

I apologise up front for any spelling or grammar mistakes, I am not the best with it and when typing for roughly 3,000 words you begin to drift off and start ranting, so shall we get started…

Rough parts list apologies if I miss anything…

40mm socket plug, 32mm waste pipe, 6mm polycarbonate, m3x10mm pan head bolt, m3x20mm pan head bolt, 22mm straight coupler, 12mm nylon rod, 32mm rubber washer, 25mm steel washer, e-tape, wood for the handle, springs



1.Take the 40mm socket plug and drill a 22mm hole on the top there are 3 ways to do this either a hole-saw like I used, a spade drill bit or you can drill a hole and sand to the right size using a dremel, once you have the 22mm hole use some sand paper to just sand away any burs and a little inside just so you can squeeze the coupler in.



2.Take your coupler and wrap in e-tape, packing tape etc. until you get a snug fit inside the 32mm pipe (ID is 30mm)

3.Now use super glue, hot glue, epoxy basically any type of adhesive and glue the couple inside the plug, make sure it is cantered and do not get too much glue on the inside and the pipe needs to slide inside as well.



4.Now mark a line every 90 degrees on the plugs edge using a sharpie/pencil using a craft ruler(works best as it takes to the cylinder very well) Now along those lines mark a dot or a dash at 12.5mm(half way point)

5.Now take your 32mm cut it too 200mm long sand the edges smooth and then using a ruler and a sharpie mark every 45 degree and draw a line the full length of the pipe.

6.Now wrap some electrical tape or packing tape around the end of the pipe roughly 8-10 tight wraps should be enough make sure to test fit and you want tit too be tight but still able to come off after.



7.Now take the coupler/bushing and slide over the pipe and proceed to drill the marked holes with a 2mm drill bit. Once drilled use an m3 tap and tap the holes. Now you should be able to take 4 m3x10mm bolts and simply thread them in. (I would recommend not gluing the front yet as its easier to work with when it’s not attached, ensure to mark one of the 45 degree line so you know which way it goes back on.



8.Now the bushing and front assembly is done we can create the plunger head, so take your 25mm metal washer and place it over the m3x20mm bolt followed by your 32mm rubber washer(I make my own) and then followed by another metal washer.



9.Next take your plunger rod, I use nylon but you can use a range of different ones as long as its 12mm in diameter and solid, so using your 2mm drill bit drill a hole in the centre of your plunger rod this is done by eye no measuring is needed unless you’re not too great with a drill, then follow in with the m3 tapping bit you need to drill approximately 1.75 mm in at least but may as well just do 20mm and save the hassle, this is to ensure the bolt can thread all the way and be tight and strong.



10.Now you are as far as you can go with your plunger rod for now so we shall move on to the catch. Using a hole saw or a dremel cut out a circle in 6mm polycarbonate at 30mm diameter then sand the edges so smooth and gets rid of all burs so can easily slide in, then drill a 12mm hole in the middle using a spade bit or any method you choose now repeat this step 3 times until you have 3 identical 30mm circles with a 12mm hole in the middle, now clamp all three together using a g-clamp and drill two holes around 1mm away from the edge and try to make as parallel as you can this is also done by eye no real need to measure, so drill the holes using a 2mm drill bit then once again follow it though with your m3 tapping bit, then the next step is to take one of the disks and cut a line around 2mm away from the centre hole(should be 1mm or so away from the 2 smaller holes, ensure that the lines are straight otherwise the catch could have problems moving and or be stiff when catching and disengaging.



11.Now you have your catch plates cut out take the small cut out part which is the actual catch and using a dremel sand the 12mm hole downwards to create a small oval and in the top corners to create a small rounded rectangle, this will catch on the plunger rod better and allow for less catch slipping. Also sand around the top and bottom to allow movement area the top should be around 2mm thick and the bottom around 5mm thick. Now take the catch and drill a 2mm hole in the bottom cantered and then follow through with the m3 tapping bit again(yes is become quite repetitive). Now you can take the circle plate and thread in your 20mm m3 bolt then place your catch plate in the middle then follow with your second plate, they should line up and be fairly straight now. If they are not alighted try flipping one of the plates and if still not a line sand until close.



12.Test fit the catch into the pipe ensuring that it will slide in but not be too loose. Now we need to drill some holes so mark out every 45 degree on one of the circle plates. This will allow you to drill the holes to match the pipes holes, so on the 45 degree marks (0nly should be 4) drill a hole with a 2mm drill bit centred and then follow through with the m3 tapping bit, you will break through to the 12mm hole but no worries if you do just sand the burs out and you will be fine.



13.Now you have your catch manufactured you can go about fitting it so on your pipe measure 5cm from the back and on the 45 degree lines drill a hole using the 2mm drill bit and then follow it with the m3 tapping bit.

14.Now if you take apart your catch so that you have the circle plate with the 4 holes, slide it in from the back and screw it in using m3x10mm bolts they should line up correctly if you measure the 45degree lines correctly.



15.Now you need to drill a hole for your trigger spring/screw to go, on the bottom line you should have a screw on the right and the left you now need to measure roughly 6mm back from the catch bolts and drill a 2mm pilot hole followed by a 5mm drill bit, this should allow your bolt to go in and out smoothly and not let your spring go into the pipe. So if you now take a m3x10mm bolt and slide on your spring using one hand to place the catch plate in the back lining it up with the hole you have just drilled use your other hand to bush the bolt in and turn it a few times so that the bolt begins to thread, now use a screw driver and turn the bolt around 3mm into the catch plate this should be enough to hold it and allow space for the spring, if you find your spring popping into the pipe take a thin piece of plastic or any other thin material drill a 4mm hole and then put that on so it hits the pipe first, this will allow the bolt to move in and out easily and the spring to compress to its full strength without going into the pipe.



16.Now simply screw in the other half of the catch plate line the hols up and use the 20mm bolt to hold the whole catch assembly together, ! Make sure to keep pushing on the spring/bolt to ensure that the second plate is not pulling it too tight that the catch cannot move if you find that it is then un-screw a few turns until it can move again and then leave it is done.



17.So we now have the front bushing, and the catch fully done we can finish the plunger rod, so find the spring you want to use and put it on the plunger rod take off the front bushing and push the plunger into the pipe and guide it through the catch, you can now push the rod from the front using a piece of pipe etc. until it hits full compression, then release the tension so that plunger rod moves around 4-5mm forward then take a pencil or sharpie and mark a rough mark on the plunger rod from the back one you take the rod back out you should have a mark which determines where the notch should go you will then get the most out of your spring. Now using a dremel cut 5mm down into the plunger rod along that line making sure its parallel then at a 20 degree angle make a slope this allows for an easier catch and less effort needed, also ensure to sand it down making sure there are no burs etc. which interrupts the 12mm diameter. Using a sanding drum now sand the angles of the plunger rod as shown this allows the catch to engage with more surface area allowing no slipping or unwanted disengaging from knocks.

18.Once done you should be able to slide it back into the pipe and it will catch and only move forward again when you push on the catch spring/bolt.

19.The handle and trigger design is based on personal preference and style, my style is to have  square trigger guard and an ergonomic handle some prefer a standard straight handle it depends also on your skill and what you are capable of doing. The trigger is also preference is can be chunky, thin, flat, curvy, wooden, polycarbonate etc. but my style is thin and curved but all triggers need to have a flat surface where the trigger can hit the catch spring/bolt to disengage the catch therefore shooting the dart.



20.Above are images of my handle and trigger preference. Experimentation is key to get what you deem to be comfortable for you.



21.Once you have your trigger and handle you need to attach them to each other I do this using polycarbonate so mark out a strip which is 10mm x 160mm you need two of these, once cut using a dremel put up to the handle and mark some holes I like to do 2 on each part of the handle , so drill the polycarbonate first making sure they are both the same then put it up to the handle and drill the wood as well going all the way through straight once done use your m3 tap and tap all the holes both in the wood and the polycarbonate now you will need to sand the poly carbonate to fit perfectly I use a dremel with a sanding drum this allows you to fit the polycarbonate better than just marking and cutting then trying to attach.





22.Now we need to attach the trigger to the polycarbonate rails, so I don’t lie using one big bolt because you will need to put a nut on one of the sides which looks quite tacky so I drill a 2mm hole in the trigger and then tap it with the m3 tap, then I take 2 of my m3x10mm bolts and wrap e-tape around the top where the head of the bolt is the tape is cut to 5mm width and is wrapped tightly you could also create these spacers with any other material if you like but I feel this has less friction over all, you now have a few mm on the end of the bolt which you can thread into the hole in the trigger on both sides, now to mount this to the handle and rails take a 5.5 drill bit and drill a hole through both sides as shown, this will allow the head of the bolt to sit in these holes and look clean instead of hanging out with one side having a bolt and the other having a nut etc. now simply take off one of the rails put in the trigger and replace the rail. You now have a handle with mounted trigger not all we have to do is attach it to the pipe and we are done more or less.







23.So line the handle up with the pipe and the catch spring/bolts should be in line with the trigger therefore will be able to work then if you roll the pipe to the side a bit you can mark 2 points on the pipe make sure this is on the bottom line so that it’s all going to be straight, then drill the 2 holes with a 2mm drill bit now if you go as parallel as you can poke though the other side, you should have 2 holes on the top and bottom, on the top 2 holes you need to enlarge these as you will need to be able to get a screwdriver in to use the bolts so, using the 5.5mm drill bit drill those two top holes if parallel you should be able to see the two smaller hole through the 5.5 holes. Now line up the handle with the lines on the bottom and now go through the 2mm holes again but this time drilling down into the wood, then follow through with the m3 tap, now you should be able to get the 2 m3x10mm bolts in and screw them down tight and the handle is mounted you can the proceed to check id the trigger lines up correctly still and of course can depress the bolt.

24.Depending on the style of handle used you may have some sway at the front and there isn’t any easy way to mechanically fasten this part so I used super glue/epoxy to secure this point only need a small bit just to keep it there remember if you need to get it of you will need to break that bond.





25.We are now getting to the end of this gruelling task, if you now put you spring back in through the front and then lube up the plunger head heavily you can slide the plunger rod in and then make it catch you can now permanently attach the bushing I use epoxy so apply the epoxy around the pipe and some in the bushing then slide it into place and while the epoxy is there screw down the 4 bolts and this should create an air tight seal leave for 24 hours and you should be good to go, the last thing is to add a plunger handle to make priming easier this again is preference some people prefer key rings  I use a some excess nylon rod and create it so that is forms a ‘T’ shape and then drill and tap that into the end of the plunger rod.

After this process you should be complete now just load and shoot if done correctly with a decent spring you should be able to get a decent range.



For those who do not want to try making them but would like one please feel free to pm and I will do a commission for you.

Many thanks if you did read this as it is very long winded and I would say detailed to a degree.

BlazZe…

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Last edited by BlazZe on Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:25 am; edited 2 times in total
Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:45 pm View user's profile Send private message
BlackBoarderV
Lord Klutz


Joined: 01 Jul 2012
Posts: 437
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Post Reply with quote
Looks Good!

Nice Write Up, Added to the directory!

//BBV

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Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:28 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
BlazZe
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Joined: 10 Mar 2013
Posts: 16
Fav. Blaster: Rainbow Pistol...
Location: England



Post Reply with quote
Thank you, i will have the pictures added within then next couple of days hope full i need to get some more stuff to finish this one. the one in the picture at the top is my first and the one im doing the wriite up on is my 3rd technically...

Thanks again

BlazZe...

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Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:33 pm View user's profile Send private message
BlackBoarderV
Lord Klutz


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Post Reply with quote
Okay, thats cool!

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Gleedaniel13
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Post Reply with quote
I agree that it is really very creative guys. I salute to the one who created this one.

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ScoutsIX-3
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EDIT

Welcome to the forum Gleedaniel! You may not have noticed, but this thread is about 2 years old. According to forum rules, we generally don't respond to threads that are old (this is called necro-ing a thread). Give the rules a read through, but don't worry, this is just a friendly tip.

                                                                                            -ScoutsIX-3





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