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Where To Buy - Dummy AA batteries to work with IMR?

Hi all,
Very new to the modding world and would like to do a quick voltage upgrade on my son's Rapid Strike CS 18 and Modulus EC -10.  

I'm after 4x AA dummy batteries to work with 4x IMR14500 (with the AA to C case for the RS).



OldNoob used to sell dummy cells.

We do not recommend using IMRs with the Rapidstrike, as they don't provide quite enough voltage/current for the 3 motors, and shorten the life of your IMR's drastically.

I've used 3x IMRs in a rewired Modulus and the motors didn't like it all that much. It worked, but it's noisy as hell and the motors burn hot pretty quickly and really let off a pong. Worth bearing in mind if you've got someone who likes to just keep the rev trigger pinned at all times; as I've noticed seems to be the case with kids I've lent flywheelers to.

2x IMRs give a more sensible boost, and the motors seemed to be more appreciative of it; as did my ears! The battery tray is fairly chunky and there's loads of space in that area, so if you can get hold of one you could wire in a 2x AA holder and just run your 2 IMRs in that rather than having to get dummy cells.

In fairness, I found the Modulus is the one blaster that has a really noticeable improvement in spin up time with just a simple rewire and 4x standard AAs.

If you don't already have IMRs and charger I wouldn't bother as it will cost about the same to get setup with LiPos, you'll only really be able to run stock motors on IMRs so as you get more involved in modding and decide to upgrade to aftermarket motors you're going to have to pay out again for a LiPo charger and suitable batteries for the motors.
Also ideally you want to rewire the blaster even if you're running IMRs as the stock wiring leaves a lot of parasitic resistance in the circuit which severely hampers performance, so making it take a LiPo requires the same amount of solder joins and you'll get more reliable performance from the better battery.

Thanks all for your quick replies.  With the research I've done so far and your advice it looks like a re-wiring job on both blasters is the way to go (gulp) and a bit of investigation into the world of LiPo and aftermarket motors.  

Obviously I'll do a bit of digging but when it comes to rewiring, any advice on type of motors and size of LiPo packs and charger?  Got to remember this doesn't need to be a top of the range mod just an introduction to me and my kid (10).

Before things get out of hand.....


You can start using the stock motors and running a 2s LiPo
Something like this would fit in both
For a charger the Turnigy S60 is great

When you're ready to upgrade the motors you can't go wrong with MTB rhinos available from Blastersmiths UK

If only doing the odd blaster Blastersmiths wiring kits are worth getting


Topic moved to allow discussion. The trading forum is purely for exchange of items whereas this thread has grown into a Q&A topic of it's own. -SSGT

It really depends on what you want out of the blasters at the end. The best place to start IMO is with a rewire and work from there (something you'd realistically have to do anyway even if you only intend to use IMRs and stock motors). If all you want is something that feels slightly nicer to use (nicer feeling switchgear, smoother operation and increased reliability) with only a very minor velocity increase then that might actually be all you really need.

If you want a little more than that you can get away with running a pair of stock semi-auto motors on 2-3 14500 size IMRs but (echoing Sparky) if you want to run three motors (i.e a full-auto), or if you are thinking of moving onto motor upgrades for any blaster at some point it in the future, you're going to need something capable of supplying more current (there's a reason the Rapidstrike uses C size cells even though the Stryfe and Modulus only use AA cells). You can get larger size IMR cells with higher discharge rates but they are even more expensive than 14500 IMRs and, if anything, even worse value (especially since they likely wouldn't be a drop-in solution even in a Rapidstrike). It certainly doesn't make sense IMO to spend the money on IMRs and a charger now only to spend the same on packs in a few months time. If you do want to run stock motors now and upgrade them further down the line there's no reason why you couldn't run the stock motors on a pack. 3S is optimal for the motors in semi-autos like the Modulus whereas 2S is optimal for Rapidstrike motors (you could run the RS motors on 3S they just wouldn't last as long, and you wouldn't see much, if any, performance gain beyond increasing the RoF, but it would save you buying a second pack for it later if you decide to use motors optimised for 3S such as "Rhinos" or "Hellcats" - there are 2S optimised motors, such as FK180SH-3240 aka EFlite "Blade" 180s, they just aren't as readily available).

It's worth noting that velocity-wise, at least with the stock flywheels, there isn't much in it between stock motors on 3 IMRs/3S LiPo and MTB Rhinos/Hellcats on a 3S LiPo. The difference is in the amount of torque the motors produce and therefore how the blasters feel to use (namely the time taken for the flywheels to get to speed and the ability to maintain velocity at higher rates of fire).

If you want a fast upgrade to the RS you can simply add a pack connector to the original loom, removing the C batteries and replacing them with either a 2s Lipo or an 8.4v Sub C  NiMh pack with no other modification required. This gives a small boost in power, the thermal fuses (PTC/Thermosistor) are still in place to protect the weedy stock wiring. That battery will run modified 130 motors as well if you want to upgrade further in future. I wouldn't rewire a RS early in your career, practice on simple stuff like Stryfes.
There is a great 2s 130 motor, called the Meishel 2 which will be hitting these shores in the next 10 days.
I sell dummy cells, see my ad in Trading, but I WON'T sell them for anything that uses C or D cells from the factory, 14500 IMR IS NOT SUITABLE for ANY FULL AUTO blaster, it's not got the required current output.
They are fine for casual stock motor use in anything else, just 2 is reliable and will even work with stock wiring. Lipo is better but not good for kids.
Be aware IMR batteries are still lithium chemistries and should be treated with respect, charged in a quality charger and NOT left unattended whilst charging. Also DO NOT leave them in blasters when not in use.

Thanks all for your advice, much appreciated that you've taken time to help and guide me in my early days of modding.

I'll keep you posted on the route we take.


Use the PM system if you want some dummy AA's for stryfes etc, I have some still in stock.
If you get stuck just pop a question up in Q&A and someone will help you.

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