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Vikolai

OMW Longshot Stage 1 - worth it?

Pretty much as the title says. After tinkering around and successfully performing a few minor mods on my blasters (AR and lock removals, mostly) I'm looking to start my first major modification - the Longshot.

I have some pretty big plans for it; brass breech, spring upgrade, and integrating the LSFG pump grip with the priming bars placed inside the shell rather than all the mods I've seen online.

I have an Amazon gift card, and trying to figure out what's best for my money. In one hand, I have the OMW Stage 1 kit for 20, in the other I have the 9kg Blasterparts spring for 10.

Currently, the only thing swaying me towards the OMW Stage 1 kit is the plunger retention cap. The spring is only 8kg; I've heard the trigger catch is made of the same material as the stock one; and I've already reinforced the trigger catch spring with a spare I had lying around.

I guess what I'm asking is, is the plunger retention cap really worth 10 or can I reinforce it another way for less?

Thanks in advance
OldNoob

I reviewed it here a while ago. The plunger endcap doesn't actually fit out the box.
It's worth buying as it's not much more than just the spring, so you get spares. My development of that kit...
Personally I am over longshot modding, I can get single handed semi auto at 120 fps for 50.
You could buy a decent lipo charger with that money.
Vikolai

OldNoob wrote:
I reviewed it here a while ago. The plunger endcap doesn't actually fit out the box.
<snip>
You could buy a decent lipo charger with that money.


Interesting stuff, and a good watch. Thanks. You've just gained a subscriber.

I had considered starting with my Stryfe, but between the lipo itself, charger, power supply for the charger, wire and new motors, it was all getting a bit frustrating to choose matching parts when I'm restricted to spending on Amazon for now.
SSGT

To be honest the cylinder end cap isn't particularly useful. Unlike the Stampede, the Longshot doesn't really need a cylinder end cap as the back of the cylinder rests against a fixed part of the internal shell - it's more of a device to aid assembly and to properly seat the spring. If it had to take any real load it wouldn't have the asymmetrical screw bosses that give it it's "mickey mouse" profile. If it does break off it'll be because there's a gap between the end cap and the inner shell where it's meant to rest against our because the inner shell deflects under the load - either way this causes the end cap and screw bosses to take the load rather than the shell. In cases where people have broken them, or have had the screw bosses on the cylinder break off, they've been able to fit it behind the cylinder loose and without screws.

A better option IMO is to reinforce the area in both shell halves directly behind where the back of the cylinder rests. If you can fill any gap between the end cap and the inner shell, or leave the end cap slightly loose, then even better.

A spare catch can be useful but the standard part doesn't usually break.
Vikolai

SSGT wrote:
If it had to take any real load it wouldn't have the asymmetrical screw bosses that give it it's "mickey mouse" profile.


I actually hadn't considered that. So of the whole Stage 1 kit, the only thing I'd actually get any performance or durability benefit from (aside from a whole bunch of spares) is the spring?
old_man_nerf

I've run 10kg springs in a long shot with just simple mods like reinforcing the bolt sled, and you don't need a kit for that....
OldNoob

Yes. This is true of all the basic springer kits, you are largely buying inessential parts. We usually only fit a new mainspring and occasionally a catch spring, the EAT is the only blaster that needs a harder catch spring as a routine, due to its bendy stock catch plate.
The two biggest power gains in direct plungers are mainspring, then a sealed breech. A functional matched barrel is useful as is AR removal in the Longshot.
There is vast BS around lots of these mods, based on poor engineering of past upgrades and zero testing.
SSGT

Pretty much. As OMN mentioned the bolt sled is the first component you want to think about replacing/reinforcing as that tends to be the first thing to break at higher spring loads (especially when one-hand priming with the standard priming handle).
Vikolai

I've decided not to bother with the Stage 1, but still getting Stage 2 as everything in that seems a bit more worthwhile. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll post pictures soon!

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