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SirBrass

Full Auto Stryfe with Cycle Control

This was a much easier project than the 180 Rapidstrike rewire, but nowhere near as straightforward. Since I was using 16awg wire throughout, I had to get creative in where and at what angle the wires were soldered to each other and to terminals. It couldn't just be "at that general angle", but with certain ones it had to be precise positioning.

Something to note about the kit. The stock motor does not produce sufficient torque to brake well with motor braking but it is quite fast regardless. This means that the live center cycle control instantly means runaway pusher. Nothing burned out when it went into runaway, but unplugging the battery was required and desoldering the live wire was required. If I replace the stock motor with a rhino or hellcat, I'll attempt live center again however.

Here are pictures of the internal wiring and then a YT video of a 10rnd dump. I did bungle the trigger at the end but that was my finger's fault, not a hiccup in the internals.

Here you can see how I did the pusher wiring.



And the battery tray


And here's the firing demo:
https://youtu.be/tAnu0cMyRNg

I replaced the stock firing switch with a cherry dc2 10A switch, and I used a rolling level 5A microswitch from RadioShack as the cycle control. The pusher is powered independently of the flywheels because I don't require the safety included in requiring the flywheel switch to be closed in order to activate the pusher, and it makes it easier to test.
Minky

Nice work Sir! I've been wondering about these kits since watching the MTB video on the one they fitted was the installation easy apart from the tricky wiring with 16awg?

Which kit is it? (.. And could you link)

When you say the pusher is powered separately do you mean it's just on a separate circuit to the flywheels off the same pack?

What flywheel motors did you use?
SirBrass

Aside from the tricky wiring, the installation was straight forward. The kit is the full auto kit, not the select fire. I purchased from Tacticoolfoam but it seems they're out of stock again (https://tacticoolfoam.com/collections/stryfe-modification-parts/products/Nerf-stryfe-full-auto-kit). And yes, by "powered separately" I mean that the pusher is powered off of the same pack but on a parallel circuit to the flywheel motors.

I used fk-180sh-3240s (blade 180s) for the flywheel motors. Pusher is the included motor, and the pack is a Turnigy Graphene 1Ah 65C 2S battery. I have hellcats & rhinos coming from containment crew so I'll run it on 3s when those get in and use the blades in my semi-only stryfe.
Minky

Thanks. Any idea if these would fit Stryfe reshells? .. and apologies, all that stuff was on your question thread that read after this.
SirBrass

It wouldn't be a drop in modification, that's for sure but psyk on YT has a video where he fit an altered kit into a desolator.
Aldegar

Nice work! I love my auto strife and found that running the pusher motor on 14500 makes these kits extremely controllable out of the box. Also, they are back in stock if anyone is wondering. For all you UK folks monkee mods has them and can ship to the UK.
SirBrass

I'd have to rewire to put the pusher on imr with the blaster flywheels on lipo, so I'll try & figure out a different solution.

Edit: I've just put in my other Fk-180sh-3240 as the pusher. It doesn't back out of the gearbox either with it fully installed, but live center still results in runaway pusher. Dead center it will remain.

However, it is MUCH more controllable than the stock pusher motor but about the same if a hair slower. A short trigger click reliably gives me 2 dart burst. Holding it down, rapid mag dump. Still can't manage single dart shots with any kind of reliability, however. No big deal. The bursts I wanted were 2rnd anyway as a compromise between conserving ammo and getting higher probability of a hit.

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